KAYA crusher, David Liang, left the gym to try his hand at outdoor climbing two years ago. In that time, he has remarkably racked up over 30 double-digit sends and now has his sights set on Grand Illusion (V16) after having two-pieced it this past season. We sat down with David to cover his transition from indoor to outdoor climbing, how he finds his perfect projects, the importance of a support crew, and his training on the Kilter Board.
Gentlemans Project (V12 variation), v12
Gentlemans Project (V12 variation) v12, Joe’s Valley. 1 ascents logged, 3.0/5 rating – Start low down and right of the massive jug to add a grade to Gentlemans Project. – View more climbs and beta videos for Left Fork, Joe’s Valley on KAYA.
Joe's Valley on KAYA: 975 Boulders, 817 Beta Videos
KAYA:
Hey, David! Thank you for joining us for our inaugural KAYA Meet the Climber series. Could you tell our audience a little bit about yourself?
David Liang:
Hey there, happy to be here! I’ve been climbing for almost seven years. I like bouldering, in particular, usually the steep stuff. I’m originally from Wisconsin, but I’m calling in from the San Francisco Bay Area where I’m staying this summer.
KAYA:
When would you say you really started identifying as a climber?
David Liang:
In my senior year of high school, I was super into climbing and probably would’ve called myself a climber. I faded away from the sport in college when injuries and no nearby gym made it difficult to climb consistently. In 2018, I got back into it when I went to grad school at Stanford. There were two climbing gyms on campus, as well as a really strong climbing team.
KAYA:
A couple of years ago you became nomadic for climbing. Tell us more about that decision and where it took you.
David Liang:
All of that began with the pandemic and the closing of climbing gyms. Up to that point, I’d gone outside maybe 10 times at most. Outdoor climbing wasn’t really my priority or my passion.
Being forced to go outside showed me how much fun it can be. It was hard adjusting and figuring out how to outdoor climb. Seeing all sorts of unique, permanent climbs that people in future generations will ideally be able to climb — I started to really appreciate the whole outdoor process.
My friends first invited me to Red Rock, Las Vegas. Then we arranged to meet up two months later in Moe’s Valley. Moe’s turned into Joe’s, and then Leavenworth, and then Tahoe, and then I ended up going to Bishop after that, Vegas again, Hueco, Joe’s Valley again, and, finally, Little Cottonwood Canyon in Salt Lake City.
Leavenworth on KAYA: 869 Boulders, 3100 Ascents, 450 Beta Videos
Tahoe on KAYA: 1900 Ascents, 464 Beta Videos
Bishop on KAYA: 6500 Ascents, 857 Beta Videos
Hueco Tanks on KAYA: 329 Beta Videos
Little Cottonwood Canyon on KAYA: 690 Boulders, 999 Ascents, 200 Beta Videos
KAYA:
What an awesome journey — you hit so many of the classic western bouldering areas! Which spots most influenced your journey as a climber?
David Liang:
Joe’s Valley and Little Cottonwood Canyon suited me really well and made it easy to see my progression. Getting stronger tangibly allowed me to try really hard, push my limits, and see further improvement.
KAYA:
Totally! Finding the right project which suits your style definitely fuels the psych. How do you shop for a project?
David Liang:
Personally, I don’t have the strongest fingers and I absolutely cannot crimp, so for some projects, I like to attack my weaknesses. In Bishop, my friend Kim and I projected a really crimpy V8 called Junior’s Achievement. I barely knew how to crimp as I’d only been outdoor climbing for a year and I didn’t crimp in the gym. Even after having sent my first V13 in a totally different style, I was still struggling on this crimpy moderate, and I’m hoping to send it next time I’m in the Buttermilks!
The first step is knowing yourself, your climbing style, and your strengths and weaknesses.
For other projects, I like to focus on my strengths. I like dynamic climbs like Abaddon, burly climbs like Gentleman’s Project, or really steep overhanging stuff like Grand Illusion. I use KAYA to find new projects in areas all across the country.
Check out David’s favorite steep, overhanging, powerful climbs
KAYA:
What are some of the climbs that stand out as defining projects from your time on the road?
David Liang:
The first thing that comes to mind is Gentleman’s Project Sit. It revolves around a right-hand gaston which you reel in and match underneath with your other hand. The holds are good, but the body positions are really tough. That was a really defining moment for me because it was my first V12. I sent it with a bunch of my friends supporting me — it was a really happy, memorable moment for all of us.
KAYA:
Nice one! It’s crazy — you were climbing exclusively indoors for so long, then you shifted over and have become a stellar outdoor climber. What was that transition from indoor to outdoor like?
David Liang:
At the time, the transition wasn’t very fun. In the gym, I could send a V10 in my style. On rock, I got destroyed on V5s and V6s. I thought, “Crap, this is so hard. Why would I do this, this is so lame.” I had a bad attitude back then. My friend, Andrew, was really encouraging and kept bringing me out despite my pessimism. He said, “Everyone goes through this phase of getting adjusted to the outdoors.”
There are so many things that need to be learnt outdoors for the first time. Once through that adjustment phase, you will be able to utilize all your strengths outdoors.
What he said was exactly true. It took two years. It was a two-year process to become comfortable climbing outside.
KAYA:
We believe that your crew makes a really big difference in motivation, where you climb, and how often. Can you tell us about your climbing squad?
David Liang:
My first crew was my high school friend group. In grad school I climbed a lot with Allen Duh, his Chinese name is Yi-Shiou. He is the first Taiwanese climber to send V14 and a Ph.D. student at Stanford. He flew to SLC to try my project with me despite knowing he wouldn’t have enough time to send it, so he was basically there just to support me. He’s been hugely helpful.
KAYA:
That’s so cute that your friend flew out to support you! That is A+ climbing crew material.
David Liang:
Yeah, that guy is such a great friend. I went through some hardships during that time and he actually stayed an extra week just to babysit me.
KAYA:
Go, Allen! Now you’re in the bay for the summer and I’m seeing you’re on the Kilter Board a lot. Is Kilter your primary training tool?
David Liang:
It is! The Kilter Board has an infinite number of hard, fun climbs. I like to see my progression on benchmark problems from years ago to now in terms of power, control, and strength.
I’m definitely using it as a tool to get ready for my next project, Grand Illusion (V16). It’s a very long burly climb. You need a ton, a ton, a ton of power, and some pinch strength. I’ve been trying to focus on super-powerful, bicep-y, and pinchy climbs.
The reason I’m in the Bay now, and the reason I’m indoors training, is that it’s draining to always be outdoors or on the road. I’ve got friends and some family here which is great for my mental health.
Check out David’s Kilter Board Project List
KAYA:
Well, the KAYA crew and community love watching you crush it and your projecting journey. Thanks for sharing with us! We’re super excited to watch you take down Grand Illusion!!
David Liang:
Thank you so much! I’m honored you’re interested in my story and I’m super psyched to keep using KAYA to track my sends and progression. I also can’t wait for the outdoor boulder guide features and to continue using the lists!
KAYA:
Thank you, David!
