Bishop Bouldering Overview
Small town, big backyard. Bishop sits at the edge of the Eastern Sierra and is a cornerstone of American bouldering, where historic testpieces meet a thriving community and breathtaking scenery. With striking granite highballs in the Buttermilks, steep volcanic lines in the Happies and Sads, and a massive variety of styles and grades, it’s a destination that draws climbers from around the world.
Whether you’re here for your first trip or your fiftieth, the climbs, the history, and the landscape make Bishop a place worth returning to. This guide covers everything you need to know, from which boulders to try, to the history of Bishop bouldering.
Also, check out The Top 10 Most Popular Problems in Bishop!
Understanding Bishop Bouldering
With distinct zones like the Buttermilks and Tablelands offering radically different styles, Bishop rewards versatility, commitment, and a deep appreciation for rock. You’ll find everything from techy micro-crimping and powerful overhangs to the iconic highballs that test your head game.
The Buttermilks are all about crimping and commitment on bullet-hard granite. The Happies and Sads bring steep movement and skin-testing pockets carved into volcanic tuff. No matter where you climb, you’re in terrain shaped by decades of ascents and community effort.
History of Bishop Bouldering
Climbers have been exploring the boulders around Bishop since at least the 1940s, with early pioneers like Smoke Blanchard frequenting the Buttermilks. Bishop became a world-class bouldering destination during the 1990s and early 2000s.
In 2000, Chris Sharma completed the first ascent of The Mandala V12 in the Buttermilks, a line that had been eyed for decades and quickly became one of the most legendary problems in American bouldering. Around the same time, Jason Kehl established Evilution V12, a 55-foot line that pushed the boundaries of highball climbing. Fred Nicole’s ascent of The Swarm V14 further solidified Bishop’s reputation for cutting-edge bouldering.
These climbs weren’t just difficult, they were visionary. Since then, Bishop has remained a proving ground for elite climbers and an inspiring playground for others. Today, the scene continues to thrive. Dedicated climbers are still establishing new world-class lines, and the community works diligently to protect access and respect the land.
Rock Type and Climbing Style
Bishop offers two primary rock types: granite and volcanic tuff.
In the Buttermilks, you’ll find coarse, bullet-hard granite known for its texture, patina edges, and highball potential. Movement here tends to be technical and powerful, often requiring body tension, precise footwork, and a strong head for exposure. The rock can be sharp and skin-intensive, but the friction is unbeatable.
In contrast, the Happies and Sads are made of volcanic tuff; they’re steep, pocketed, and sharp. Expect compression movement, roof problems, and more dynamic sequences, with plenty of holds but tricky beta. The boulders are generally smaller, making these zones a favorite for volume days and newer climbers.
Whether you love delicate crimp lines or steep pocket climbing, Bishop delivers a bit of everything, often in the same trip.
Best Times to Boulder in Bishop
The best time to climb in Bishop is fall through early spring, typically from October to April. During these months, the high-desert climate offers crisp temps, low humidity, and bluebird skies.
Summer is far too hot to climb, and it is considered the Bishop off-season.
Winter brings freezing nights and occasional snow in the Buttermilks, but it is still accessible during most seasons with sun and a little strategy. The Tablelands often stay warmer and more protected from the wind, making them ideal for colder days.
Essential Areas for Every Skill Level
Beginner-friendly Classics
Bishop isn’t just for crushers. Newer climbers will find plenty of approachable problems with good holds, flat landings, and unforgettable movement. Here are a few must-tries to get started:
Tablelands:
Heavenly Path V1— Located in the center of the Happies, this is a can’t-miss warm-up. A towering slab with incredible features and a surreal backdrop.
Monkey Hang V3— A classic roof climb with big moves on jugs and a fun swing to finish.
Buttermilks:
The Hunk V2— A world-class highball with fun movement, a mellow crux, and classic Buttermilk granite. The higher you go, the easier it gets, until the final reach. Keep your cool at the top!
Sunshine Slab V0— A stunning flake line up the tallest part of the boulder, with secure movement and an unbeatable view. One of the most memorable warm-ups in the Buttermilks, but still, best not to fall.
Green Wall Essential V2— A go-to for getting used to Buttermilk patina. Climb the crack system on the left side of the wall from a stand start. Loved and hated in equal measure, it’s a great option if you’re not feeling up for highballs (yet) but still want a classic Buttermilks experience.
Robinson’s Rubber Tester V0— A slab that rewards careful footwork and patience. Follow the line of least resistance toward a slight sloper ¾ of the way up. A great warm-up and confidence builder for first-timers. See below for an impressive (and painful) barefoot send.
No matter what area you choose, rest assured that there will be plenty of beginner-friendly problems to test yourself on. Climbing a large volume of climbs in this grade range is the fastest and best way to quickly improve your technique on this rock type!
Intermediate Classics
Bishop really starts to open up once you’re comfortable above V0–V3 terrain. The V4–V6 range is full of iconic problems that deliver beautiful rock, thoughtful movement, and often just the right amount of spice. Check out these classics:
Tablelands:
Solarium V4— Climb from low huecos into a well-chalked line of pockets with big, reachy moves and plenty of beta options. Loved and hated—but always memorable.
Serengetti V5— One of the best! Start low on the left-facing flake, then angle up through dishes and crimps in the overhang. Steep, flowy, and ultra-satisfying. A must-do for the grade in the Tablelands.
The Hulk V6— A steep, varied climb with powerful movement on polished volcanic rock. It’s a little slick from traffic, but still a justifiable favorite and a proud tick for the grade.
Atari V6— Climb the iconic arete from a stand start. Bring ample pads and spotters, and you’ll be rewarded with one of the most photogenic lines in the Tablelands.
Buttermilks:
Iron Man V4— One of the most popular boulders in all of Bishop. Long, pumpy, and surprisingly accessible, with a great flat landing.
Bowling Pin V4— One of Bishop’s most well-known V4s. Steady movement on small holds with a spicy foot move near the top. This one is classic, proud, and heady. Be prepared to wait your turn on weekends.
Fly Boy Arete V5— A perfect intro to Buttermilk movement. Start at the flat jug, link into the arete, and enjoy fun, secure climbing on positive crimps. Approachable and always worth a lap.
Seven Spanish Angels V6— A classic blobby line with two proud finishes: a direct dyno or a longer gaston line out left. Both are about the same grade. Previously known as The Ruckus, this one’s a true Buttermilks favorite.
Hard Classics
Bishop’s upper grades are legendary. These lines are benchmarks for a reason, and they’ve earned their place in bouldering history.
Tablelands:
Not Another Brit in Bishop V7— Start on the horizontal rail and power through slopers and toe hooks with fancy footwork and finesse.
Disco Diva V8— Start low and fight your way through steep crimps. Top it off with a sweet little dyno. Powerful, flowy, and one of the best in the canyon.
Last Dance V9— Use a tricky heel hook to span/dyno up to the horizontal break and finish up and slightly left.
Buttermilks:
High Plains Drifter V7— One of the best V7s in the game. Start on incut edges and climb diagonally through slopers and razor crimps to a heartbreak finish. Don’t fear the top, but don’t forget you have to get down.
The Checkerboard V8— Proud and pumpy. Begin on a right-facing jug and climb through sharp, worsening edges to a big reach and positive flakes. A serious contender for best of the grade in Bishop.
Finder’s Fee V9— Start on the horizontal scoop and climb straight into overhanging patina to a spicy lip. Best done in the shade!
Soul Slinger V9— Begin with a mellow move, then hang on tight as the tension builds up the arete. Technical, powerful, and sustained until the very end. A rite of passage for the grade.
If you’re in the V10 range, Bishop delivers plenty of classics. In the Main Milks, try Evilution to the Lip, the razor sharp crimps of Stained Glass, or the power-endurance of the Sharma Traverse. Or, if you’re looking for a break from granite, head to the Tablelands for steep volcanic classics like Standing Kill Order and Beefcake.
Extra Hard Boulders
Bishop’s hardest lines attract elite climbers from around the world every season. Whether you’re chasing big numbers or just want to see what the hype is about, check out these legendary lines:
Evilution Direct V11— The more straightforward and popular finish to Evilution, this proud highball ends with a clean topout on world-class stone. Established by Tony Lamiche during the 2002 Petzl Rock Trip.
The Mandala V12— Sharma’s legendary prow. Powerful, beautiful, and endlessly photogenic. This climb helped define a generation of bouldering.
Spectre V13— A brutally hard roof line with bad feet and big moves. Considered one of the hardest boulders in the Buttermilks and a true test of tension.
The Swarm V13/14— Ultra-crimpy and ultra-famous. One of Bishop’s most notorious crimp lines and a global benchmark.
Planning Your First Bishop Bouldering Visit
The Buttermilks and the Tablelands offer totally different climbing styles, landscapes, and often conditions. Whether you’re here for a weekend or a month, planning ahead will help you make the most of your trip. Use the map and tick list tools on KAYA to group climbs by zone, stay organized, and minimize approach and drive time between sessions.
Required gear
Bring durable climbing shoes with solid edging capabilities. Sharp patina and polished granite demand precision. You’ll also want multiple crash pads for uneven landings and highballs, especially in the Milks. Don’t forget a chalk bucket, a well-stocked skin kit, layers (temps can swing wildly), and extra water—you’re in the high desert.
Skin Preparation
The granite here is famously unforgiving. Big holds and cooler temps make for ideal conditions, but sharp crystals and high-volume sessions will wear your skin down fast. Prioritize rest days and skin care to extend your trip. Shade-chasing and avoiding back-to-back Buttermilks days can make a big difference.
Navigation tips
Bishop sits along Highway 395 in California’s Eastern Sierra, 250 miles north of Los Angeles, and 350 miles west of the Bay Area. The Buttermilks are accessed via Buttermilk Road just outside town, while the Tablelands (also called the Happies and Sads) are reached via Chalk Bluff Road. Cell service is spotty, so be sure to download Dan Beall and Eric Bissel’s KAYA guide and save your tick list before heading out. Many boulders are roadside, but the dirt roads can be rough, and speeding makes them worse. Drive slowly and adhere to the posted parking signs.
Safety and Ethics Essentials
- When parking along the road, be certain to be sufficiently off the road, but don’t crush vegetation. If there isn’t enough space to park safely, try a different area. Bishop gets very busy, especially during peak season. Be prepared to park further away and walk.
- Stay on established trails and keep crash pads off of vegetation. The desert environment is extremely fragile, and climbers have a huge impact.
- Respect fire bans! Check online for current regulations.
- Pack it in, pack it out. There are pit toilets at the main Buttermilk parking, and a porta-potty at the Happies parking.
- Keep dogs on a leash and pick up after them.
- Be respectful of other climbers and brush your tick marks!
Bishop Bouldering Conclusion
With its iconic lines, dramatic setting, and decades of dedicated climbers, Bishop is a place worth returning to.
Check out Eric Bissel and Dan Beall’s full Bishop guide on KAYA for detailed maps, tick lists, and beta for every zone.
