Little Cottonwood Canyon’s climbing area sits just 20 minutes southeast of downtown Salt Lake City and stands as one of North America’s most concentrated city-side climbing spots. Both local and professional traveling climbers have spent decades developing the canyon, which now boasts over 5,000 boulder problems.
The canyon’s granite walls have drawn climbers’ attention for more than 40 years, however, the area has experienced rapid growth over the last several years—now hosting two of the hardest problems in the country, “The Grand Illusion” and “Sosa,” both (V16). This piece will guide you through everything in Little Cottonwood Canyon climbing, whether you’re planning your first visit or returning to tackle new projects.
Understanding Little Cottonwood Canyon Bouldering
History of LCC bouldering
Mike Beck began climbing in the mid 1980s. In 1988, following a bouldering trip to the world-famous Fontainebleau, France, Mike Beck was inspired upon returning back home to Salt Lake City. At the time, there were maybe 50 problems in the canyon, maximum. That visit to France kicked off an explosion of him and his friends seeking out and developing the bouldering in LCC in a concerted effort.
He and his friends collaborated to create The Black Bible, a guidebook to Utah bouldering. Mike lead the charge on the LCC chapters and this was the primary source of recorded bouldering information for many years. In more recent years, Mike teamed up with a newer climber and data geek, Scott Stoddard. Together, using Scott’s technical and organization skills and Mike’s historical knowledge, they authored a new and extremely comprehensive guidebook for Little Cottonwood Canyon on KAYA.
Learn more of their history in our interview with the authors!
Rock type and climbing style
Little Cottonwood’s unique quartz monzonite walls give climbers a unique granite experience, with some small pockets of limestone throughout—particularly at the mouth of the canyon. The rock is characterized by:
- Crystal-heavy slopers and crimps lower in the canyon
- Tighter grained rock at higher elevations
- Friction dependent holds
- Slippery, textureless holds on more popular climbs
Why LCC is unique
Salt Lake City’s backyard houses this world-class granite that serves as an exceptional playground for local climbers. Due to the vast quantity of problems spread throughout the long, winding canyon, there is truly something for every climber. The variety of elevation also creates opportunities to climb throughout every season.
Visually, the area offers stunning views. Steep granite walls on both sides, a gorgeous running river, and serene forest environments are all present across the area’s many diverse zones. At the upper elevations, it is not unheard of to have a run in with a moose and other wildlife.
Best Times to Boulder in LCC
The timing of your LCC trip will have a large impact on your experience. Year-round, the canyon gives climbers excellent bouldering opportunities.
Peak climbing seasons
Little Cottonwood Canyon’s best climbing happens during fall and spring. The canyon’s climbing conditions reach their sweet spot in October/November. Temperatures stay between 66°F highs and 44°F lows. Nearly all areas will be accessible during these months.The spring also offers great conditions, however climber’s will have to navigate the melting snowpack, the degree to which varies year-to-year.
That said, climbing throughout the Winter and Summer is not impossible. The north side of the canyon receives the most sun. Lower elevation areas on this side of the road such as 5 Mile, Secret Garden, the Green A. Gully, and The Gate can provide dry stone even throughout some of the snowiest weeks. Alternatively, staying to the shadier south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon will yield cooler conditions throughout the warmer months. Most notably, climbing in the upper elevation areas such as White Pine will be climber’s best bet for dodging the hot summer temperatures.
Essential Areas for Every Skill Level
Beginner-friendly classics
The Secret Garden is a common starting point for beginners in LCC, featuring over 100 problems rated below V3. The climbing style here, as is common with many of the areas lower in the canyon, is quite technical and may feel difficult for climber’s who aren’t experienced on granite. that are perfect for newcomers to outdoor climbing. Apollo (V0), Warm Up (V0), and Where Have the Holds Gone (V2) are some of the most popular starting points.
The “Over the Top” boulder in White Pine features some actually beginner friendly problems—much more akin to the climbs you might find in a climbing gym. Comfortable large holds, not too tall, and with flat landings, this is a great starting point—especially if it’s a warmer month.
Thanks to the work of Scott and Mike, there are over 2000 problems in LCC listed in KAYA below V3. No matter what area you choose, rest assured that there will be problems in that range to test yourself on. Climbing a large volume of climbs in this grade range is the fastest and best way to quickly improve your technique on this rock type!
Intermediate classics
Perhaps the two most iconic and sought after V4s in the canyon are Twisted and Surfboard. Both of these roadside problems require serious technical prowess, and will often feel impossible until you find the perfect beta and body positions. Given their popularity, these climbs have gotten more polished and slippery over time, making them even more sandbagged.
A lesser climbed, but equally excellent climb is Tom’s Problem (V5) at the Cabbage Patch area. This problem is more relenting to climbers coming from the gym, as it is far more powerful and less reliant on honed granite technique.
Hard classics
V8 is arguably the best quality grade in the canyon. There is an excellent circuit of V8’s across the 5 Mile and Riverside areas, which lie on either side of the road from one another. These climbs include (but are not limited to) Butt Trumpet (V8), Bronson’s Arete (V8), Alzheimer’s (V8), Blue Steel (V8), and Surprise (V8). If you can climb all of these problems—you can consider yourself well-versed in LCC granite scaling.
Extra Hard Classics
Some of the best V9s in the canyon include the tricky slab Huge (V9), and the imposing highballs Wrist Rocket (V9) and The Good Listener (V9), located respectively in the The Swamp, The Hill, and White Pine South areas.
If you fancy yourself a real challenge and are operating in the double-digit range, try your hand at some of the following.
For weird-highball palm pressing and power, try Justin Wood’s problem Red Letter Day (V10).
For quintessential, old-school fingernail crimping, have a go at Copperhead (V10). It’s not fun, but it is classic.
For board-style tugging try your hand at the historic Bully (V11), first ascended by Jeff Webb in the late 1990’s.
If you’re REALLY strong, Transience (V14) marries tech and power and is one of the most stunning blocs in the world.
The above are just a small small sampling of the many incredible problems in Little Cottonwood Canyon on which your memories, frustrations, and eventual successes will be had.
Check out our article on the top 10 most popular problems in the canyon to continue exploring:
Planning Your First LCC Visit
Getting ready for your first LCC climbing session needs the right equipment and safety prep. Your success at the crag depends on bringing proper gear and knowing how the canyon is laid out.
Required gear
The right climbing shoes are the foundations of your gear setup. LCC’s granite surfaces work best with stiff-rubbered shoes that excel at edging. You’ll need a chalk bag, of course, and several crash pads for safe landings.
Skin Preparation
The Little Cottonwood rock can often be quite abrasive, and it’s crystal structure can easily batter an unprepared fingertip. You’ll want “Granite Skin,” meaning thick, strong callouses. If you don’t already have them, a few slightly painful sessions on the rock will fix that right up!
Navigation tips
Take the 6200 South exit from I-215 and follow the ski resort signs. The canyon road (Route 210) guides you straight to the climbing spots, and you’ll park along the road to reach most areas. Use KAYA to navigate the approaches directly to your climb of choice.
Due to the city-side nature of the canyon, you are never more than 20 minutes from snacks, gas, food, and water. There are numerous great places to eat in Salt Lake City, but climber favorites include Central 9th Market, Pretty Bird Hot Chicken, and Spitz.
Safety essentials
- When parking along the road, be certain to be sufficiently off the road. If there isn’t enough space to park safely, try a different area!
- Be cautious when crossing the road. Cars ZOOM down it.
- Be sure to take care in setting up proper landing zones with your crash pads, ensuring they are placed appropriately in the fall-zone and do not have gaps between pads
- Make an effort to have trustworthy and reliable spotters to protect you
- Look up weather conditions ahead of time and dress appropriately
- Communicate clearly with your climbing partner
Conclusion
Little Cottonwood Canyon is a world-class climbing destination. Its exceptional granite sits just minutes from Salt Lake City. Climbers of all skill levels can enjoy the canyon’s 5,000+ boulder problems, from the beginner-friendly Secret Garden to the extremely difficult Grand Illusion.
Be mindful of the weather and seasonality. For the best likelihood of good conditions, plan a trip from September through December and March through June. Climbers will often choose north-side routes for sunny winter sessions and seek shade and elevation as temperatures rise.
This historic area challenges, inspires, and rewards those ready to test their skills on granite. Take a visit and see why LCC became a training ground for generations of climbers. Use the full Little Cottonwood Bouldering Guide in KAYA helps you plan your trip effectively.
