Red Rock Canyon is home to some of the best sandstone bouldering in the western United States. The most popular areas are the sunny Kraft Boulders and Calico Basin which offer dozens of classic moderate boulder problems within proximity of each other. If you want to get more adventurous, there are dozens of other canyons to explore with problems of all grades. If you’re willing to hike, the quality only improves!
Below is a complete guide for your first trip to Red Rock.
Classics to Climb:
Bouldering in Red Springs — Photo: Kyle RedbergFor Beginner/Intermediate Climbers:
Kraft is beginner-friendly and is an easily accessible crag to gain more experience bouldering outside! Unlike the long canyon approaches that Red Rock is known for, the sunny Kraft boulders are just a short walk from the parking lot.
Potato Chips V2, Red Rock
Potato Chips, v2
Potato Chips v2, Red Rock. 423 ascents logged, 4.4/5 rating – An iconic Red Rocks boulder problem. Crouch start with small but incut crimps, climb directly to the lip, and mantle above. Hardmen of the 1980s, such as John Long, cranked one-arm pull ups from the crimps just above head height.
Monkey Bars V2, Red Rock
Monkey Bars, v2
Monkey Bars v2, Red Rock. 331 ascents logged, 4.5/5 rating – Numerous starts are possible to gain the large holds at the upper right side of the overhang. From these holds, continue up and right on surprisingly good holds that lead to a reasonable top out.
Sorange V3, Red Rock
Sorange, v3
Sorange v3, Red Rock. 262 ascents logged, 4.3/5 rating – Stand start with a left hand downpull and a neat pocket at chest height; climb up and right following a crimp/sidepull rail to the top out. – View more climbs and beta videos for Kraft, Red Rock on KAYA.
The Pearl V5, Red Rock
The Pearl, v5
The Pearl v5, Red Rock. 291 ascents logged, 3.9/5 rating – Stand start with a right hand edge/sidepull and a left hand pocket; climb the face above. The problem is shady from mid-afternoon to sunset. Holds broke in the 2010s, but the difficulty has remained roughly the same.
Kraft’s easy approach and plethora of moderate problems make it a very popular area. During peak season it can be very crowded. The more you walk, the less crowded the boulders will be! Below are some of the top moderates outside of Kraft:
Whale Bacon V0, Red Rock
Whale Bacon, v0
Whale Bacon v0, Red Rock. 10 ascents logged, 4.9/5 rating – Climb the face with beautiful huecos to balancey moves along the lip/arête. Top out at the apex. One of the best climbs of its grade in Red Rocks. – View more climbs and beta videos for Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rock on KAYA.
25 Cents V5, Red Rock
25 Cents, v5
25 Cents v5, Red Rock. 11 ascents logged, 4.8/5 rating – A beautiful peppermint-striped face with a good land- ing and reasonable height. Stand start with a block in a shallow dihedral, work up and right to a rail, and then up. – View more climbs and beta videos for Juniper Canyon, Red Rock on KAYA.
Natasha’s Highball V2, Red Rock
Natasha’s Highball, v2
Natasha’s Highball v2, Red Rock. 72 ascents logged, 4.8/5 rating – Wonderful, fluid movement on generally good holds at an attention-grabbing height. Stand start with broken flakes on the left side of the face. Climb up through edges and inset crack features. Skirt left up high to top out. Highball.
For Advanced Climbers:
Red Rock is home to dozens of five-star test-piece boulders. If you don’t want to hike, Kraft offers classics like Mr. Moran V7, Fear of a Black Hat V9, and The Alexisizer V6. However, the best boulders in Red Rock are found outside of Kraft, in the canyons!
To escape the crowds and climb on incredible rock, lace up your approach shoes and brave the trek to these boulders instead:
The Carapace V7, Red Rock
The Carapace, v7
The Carapace v7, Red Rock. 29 ascents logged, 4.4/5 rating – Crouch start with two positive holds in a low rail; climb up through slopers to a difficult mantle. This problem has a shape and holds reminiscent of Horse Pens or Fontainebleau. Unfortunately, the rock is a bit sandy.
Tilt Shift V9, Red Rock
Tilt Shift, v9
Tilt Shift v9, Red Rock. 27 ascents logged, 4.8/5 rating – Sit start with the lowest rail; technical and powerful moves lead through the rails, gain the lip, and top out above. Tricky and sequential. Classic. – View more climbs and beta videos for Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rock on KAYA.
The Jabberwocky V9, Red Rock
The Jabberwocky, v9
The Jabberwocky v9, Red Rock. 23 ascents logged, 4.4/5 rating – Sit start with a good two-finger pocket, climb the overhang, and top out above. Gymnastic and powerful. Eliminates and variations possible. – View more climbs and beta videos for Pine Creek Canyon, Red Rock on KAYA.
Ode to the Modern Mayor V9, Red Rock
Ode to the Modern Mayor, v9
Ode to the Modern Mayor v9, Red Rock. 25 ascents logged, 4.2/5 rating – Start as for Stampede, move back right on small crimps after the block feature, and finish straight up through a hueco with a balancey top out. Suffers a similar sandy fate as Stampede.
Americana Exotica V10, Red Rock
Americana Exotica, v10
Americana Exotica v10, Red Rock. 79 ascents logged, 4.3/5 rating – Start with underclings; move through more underclings and sidepulls to easier ground on suspect rock. Angle right to top out along varnished flakes. – View more climbs and beta videos for Gateway Canyon, Red Rock on KAYA.
Critically Acclaimed V10, Red Rock
Critically Acclaimed, v10
Critically Acclaimed v10, Red Rock. 6 ascents logged, 5.0/5 rating – Stand start with a sidepull/rail feature, follow thin slopers and crimps left, and then up the overhanging face, passing a jug at two-thirds height. Solid rock and technical sequences through a beautiful face make for a world-class classic.
Wet Dream V12, Red Rock
Wet Dream, v12
Wet Dream v12, Red Rock. 29 ascents logged, 5.0/5 rating – Sit start on rounded crimps; work straight out the steep face to a horizontal break. Top out above. One of the best problems in North America. Steep, hard, and high, Wet Dream is a power-endurance problem with about 12 intricate moves, each of which is no harder than V9.
Top 10 Red Rock Boulders:
Top 10 Popular Boulder Problems in Red Rocks, Nevada
Red Rocks, Nevada is arguably the best sandstone bouldering in the western United States. The most popular area is the sunny Kraft Boulders and Calico Basin which are home to dozens of classic moderate boulder problems within close proximity of each other.
Accommodations near Red Rock, NV
Vegas offers a variety of places to stay for visiting climbers. Whether you prefer camping, a hotel’s convenience, or a private rental’s comfort, there are choices to suit every preference and budget.
Monkey Wrench v7, Red Springs, Red Rock — Photo: Kyle RedbergRed Rock Canyon Campground–
Located inside the Red Rock Conservation Area, this is the closest camping to most of the bouldering! Here you can find 50+ campsites with access to vault toilets, trash cans, and drinking water. Online reservations can be made up to six months in advance. First-come-first-served sites are limited and fill up quickly during peak season. Camping fees are $25/night for standard drive-in sites.
Lovell Canyon Dispersed Camping–
In search of free camping? Lovell is a 30-minute drive west from the Red Rock Canyon Visitors Center. This is one of the only permitted free camping options near the canyon. Be sure to follow all dispersed camping regulations and leave no trace! Don’t forget to pack warmer layers- Lowell is a few thousand feet of elevation higher than Red Rock so it can be much colder.
Private Rentals + Hotels-
Summerlin, Nevada, situated just a stone’s throw away from Red Rock Canyon, is an ideal place to stay for bouldering trips. There are numerous Airbnb and VRBO rentals within a 15-minute drive from the canyon entrance. This is a great option for larger groups or long trips.
The closest hotel is Red Rock Casino, located two miles from the canyon entrance. Alternatively, hotels on the Las Vegas Strip provide a classic Vegas experience with entertainment and iconic landmarks. For climbers looking to immerse themselves in Sin City while still enjoying access to Red Rock Canyon, staying on the Strip offers a unique blend of adventure and luxury.
Food + Water-
The closest grocery store to Kraft and the main entrance is the Albertsons on West Charleston Boulevard. It is a full-sized grocery store with water-fill stations.
There are limited options near Black Velvet Canyon on the West side of Red Rock, so don’t forget to grab the essentials before leaving Summerlin. The nearest option to BV is the Terrible’s gas station on Blue Diamond Road which has typical gas station snacks and drinks.
Best Seasons to Climb:
Monkey Bar v8, Kraft Boulders, Red Rock — Photo: Kyle RedbergFall / Winter / Spring
Great climbing temps can be found from October to April. There are occasional winter storms that can leave the boulders snowy. However, there are plenty of cloudless winter days with temps in the mid 60’s. Be sure to pack layers, as the desert climate can be freezing at night and in the shade!
When it is warmer in the Fall and Spring, search for cooler sending temps in the canyons where there is more shade and wind.
In the winter when the canyons are very cold, the Kraft and Red Spring boulders are much warmer and get plenty of winter sun exposure.
Climb Responsibly:
Meadowlark Lemon v13, Gateway Canyon, Red RockWet Rock-
Aztec Sandstone is well-featured and offers great friction when dry. When sandstone is wet, it is fragile and easily damaged. Even the most popular climbs can break easily after rain. Generally, you can not climb on sandstone for 24–72 hours after rain. Check the local weather and remember, if the ground is wet, so are the boulders!
Leave No Trace-
Red Rock is home to many sensitive plants, petroglyphs, and wildlife. Avoid walking off the trail, and be sure to keep crash pads off of the sensitive vegetation. To minimize environmental impact, keep dogs on a leash at crags and properly dispose of poop bags! There are restrooms at Red Spring in Calico Basin, at each of the scenic loop pullouts, and the Late Night Parking Area off SR160.
Visit the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition to learn more about climbing ethics and best practices to protect the fragile Red Rock landscape.
Red Rock Bouldering Guides-
For the most comprehensive and up-to-date guide check out the KAYA guide by local guide author Tom Moulin by downloading his guide on KAYA with downloadable GPS pins and offline topo maps — the boulders can be difficult to find but with KAYA GPS maps you’ll never get lost and can spend more time climbing. You can also buy his print guidebook here.
Bouldering on Red Wave v10 in Red Springs, Red Rock — Photo: Kyle Redberg
