The New River Gorge, or NRG, in West Virginia is one of the newest National Parks and home to perhaps the best sandstone in the country or even the world! Located in the region surrounding Fayetteville, West Virginia and the famous New River Gorge Bridge, this climbing area features some of the most incredible holds and lines of an unmatched quality.
Below you’ll find the top ten most popular problems in the New River Gorge.
10. Leaving Las Fayetteville V4
Leaving Las Fayetteville, v4
Leaving Las Fayetteville v4, New River Gorge. 24 ascents logged, 3.9/5 rating – Crouch start under the small roof and climb the prow. – View more climbs and beta videos for The Dries, New River Gorge on KAYA.
9. The Black — Direct V9
The Black – Direct, v9
The Black – Direct v9, New River Gorge. 22 ascents logged, 4.3/5 rating – Sit start in the pit and climb straight up the center of the black face. – View more climbs and beta videos for New River Proper, New River Gorge on KAYA.
8. I Love Luci! V3
I Love Luci!, v3
I Love Luci! v3, New River Gorge. 26 ascents logged, 3.8/5 rating – Sit start on shelves just to the left of the arete. Climb up and into the arete, eventually wrapping around to the right side. – View more climbs and beta videos for The Meadow, New River Gorge on KAYA.
7. Oil Sands V7
Oil Sands, v7
Oil Sands v7, New River Gorge. 31 ascents logged, 4.0/5 rating – Crouch start matched on a jug slot in the middle of the roof. Climb out underclings to holds near the edge of the roof then hit the lip and follow up and right to end at the topout crack on “Friends of Coal”.
6. There’s No I in Illiterate V7
There’s No I in Illiterate, v7
There’s No I in Illiterate v7, New River Gorge. 30 ascents logged, 3.5/5 rating – Sit start on the crimp in the middle of the face at the back of the roof. Climb up and straight out the roof to the arete feature. Right, eliminate variation of “Mechanical Sensei”.
5. Octagon Control V10
Octagon Control, v10
Octagon Control v10, New River Gorge. 29 ascents logged, 4.4/5 rating – Stand start in a deep two-finger pocket and climb the steep wall. – View more climbs and beta videos for New River Proper, New River Gorge on KAYA.
4. 1, 2, Punch V7
1, 2, Punch, v7
1, 2, Punch v7, New River Gorge. 36 ascents logged, 4.7/5 rating – Sit start with a left-hand crimp and your right hand in a large, low hueco. Climb up the center of the face. – View more climbs and beta videos for New River Proper, New River Gorge on KAYA.
3. Mechanical Sensei V5
Mechanical Sensei, v5
Mechanical Sensei v5, New River Gorge. 46 ascents logged, 4.0/5 rating – Sit start on the crimp in the middle of the face at the back of the roof. Climb left, then right up the headwall. The big hold on the headwall has broken, making this move just a little harder.
2. Egyptian Root Canal V5
Egyptian Root Canal, v5
Egyptian Root Canal v5, New River Gorge. 45 ascents logged, 4.6/5 rating – Sit start with your left hand on a big, hooded crimp and your right hand on a jug. Climb up and left through rails. Slap out to the flat lip and make a long move up and right, then to the top.
1. Bro-ner V6
Bro-ner, v6
Bro-ner v6, New River Gorge. 46 ascents logged, 3.5/5 rating – Sit start on the arete under the roof and follow the lip to jugs. – View more climbs and beta videos for The Meadow, New River Gorge on KAYA.
Top 10 New River Gorge Boulders:
Top 10 Popular Boulder Problems in the New River Gorge
The New River Gorge is filled with thousands of pristine sandstone boulders. Although the New is well known for its single pitch sport climbing, the boulders are just as incredible! This KAYA PRO guidebook is here to help you find the boulder and the beta!
Find these classic problems and more in the NRG Bouldering Guidebook on KAYA.
