Brandon Vu’s 5X V5 2022 Challenge
Brandon Vu set an ambitious goal of climbing his first five V5s in 2022. Using KAYA, he made a project list and ticked ’em off one at a time! Learn more about his journey here: https://medium.com/kaya-guides/brandon-vus-5x-v5-challenge-3abfe48a19ab
Seattle climber, Brandon Vu, first got his gym membership in January of 2019. In 2021, he completed his first outdoor V4. Then, Brandon created an ambitious goal to climb five V5s in 2022. Using KAYA, Brandon made a project list and got to work!
1. Gimme Back My ID V5, Index, Washington
3.8*, 9 ascents, 4 beta videos on KAYA
Brandon was shocked to have sent his first V5 in just one session. Gimme Back My ID sparked Brandon’s inspiration for the 5X V5 challenge. Having sent the problem in April, he’d have another eight months to complete his goal.
Gimme Back My Id, v5
Gimme Back My Id v5, Index. 32 ascents logged, 4.1/5 rating – Sit start on the pinch/fin feature a few feet right of Leggo My Ego and climb up through a chunky quartz pocket to jugs at the lip. – View more climbs and beta videos for River Boulders, Index on KAYA.
2. Footless Traverse V5, Leavenworth, Washington
4.1*, 31 ascents, 12 beta videos on KAYA
Brandon tried Footless Traverse back in 2021 but couldn’t link together the sections for a send! After two more sessions, he took it down.
“Footless Traverse was my favorite boulder of the challenge. It has super good movement and was really fun to figure out.”
The Footless Traverse, v5
The Footless Traverse v5, Leavenworth. 107 ascents logged, 4.2/5 rating – Start in the middle of the tall face with jugs at the bottom-right end of the obvious flake. Traverse left in the crack to the loaf hold at the edge of the steep roof, finishing up and left by mantling onto the ramp.
“KAYA has been an integral part of my climbing journey”
3. Schist Cave Right V5, Leavenworth, Washington
3.4*, 19 ascents, 4 beta videos on KAYA
Across the street from Footless Traverse lies the Schist Cave, a steep roof with crisscrossing lines of varying difficulty. Brandon describes this as his anti-style. Fortunately, some stronger climbers were working a harder variation and were able to help him refine his beta. Brandon took it down after three tough sessions.
Schist Cave Right, v5
Schist Cave Right v5, Leavenworth. 95 ascents logged, 3.7/5 rating – Start on very low jugs 10 feet or so right of The Schist Cave. Climb up the obvious right-facing corner on good sloping holds to an awkward interchange to gain an obvious flat jug at the 7 foot level.
4. Sobriosity V5/6, Gold Bar, Washington
3.9*, 32 ascents, 22 beta videos on KAYA
Brandon first saw Sobriosity back in 2020. He and his friends went for a night session, arriving at 9 pm. They tried the boulder and got super shut down. The next day, they realized they had been accidentally trying a V10 variation of the problem.
“That one was a longer term project, it took me two years to get strong enough to nail it down. It’s also my anti-style, containing very powerful moves, a lot of compression, awkward body positioning, and an insecure final throw to a jug. That was my most proud send of this tick list!”
Sobriosity, v6
Sobriosity v6, Gold Bar. 82 ascents logged, 3.9/5 rating – Start seated on the low jug rail and climb right across the short and steep face. Friendly holds and many solutions make this popular problem enjoyable for nearly everybody! – View more climbs and beta videos for Lower Gold Bar, Gold Bar on KAYA.
5. Zelda Rails Right V5, Index, Washington
4.0*, 7 ascents, 1 beta video on KAYA
Brandon had climbed a V4 variant of this problem in years past. Only when he returned with a friend who’d wanted to try the V4 did he realize the V5 exit existed. He hopped on, and to his surprise, he sent it in 3 tries!
“I didn’t think the last climb would be that easy for me. It’s definitely my style though, big moves between big holds and compression climbing.”
Zelda Rails Right, v5
Zelda Rails Right v5, Index. 51 ascents logged, 4.3/5 rating – Start on the same large shelf of Zelda Rails but climb up and rightward to finish. – View more climbs and beta videos for Index Proper, Index on KAYA.
We chatted with Brandon to learn a bit more about this experience with this challenge.
KAYA:
Do you think sending the final V5 of your challenge in a few tries speaks to the progression you’ve experienced throughout this challenge? Do you think this challenge has made you a better climber?
Brandon:
Absolutely. More than anything, this challenge forced me to get outside more than ever before. Climbing outside every weekend gave me way more experience and made me a better climber. I improved my footwork a lot compared to in the gym.
KAYA:
How did KAYA help with this goal?
Brandon:
KAYA was really helpful to solicit beta from other climbers. I refer to it a lot for that purpose. Having a List for my challenge in KAYA was helpful to plan out my objectives and helped keep me motivated.
KAYA:
Do you think you sold yourself short considering you completed your year-long goal in July? What’ll be the next challenge for you?
Brandon:
I think I might’ve sold myself short with this goal. I wasn’t able to send any V5s last year, so seeing myself send five this year… It was probably all the training I’d done over the winter.
Over the past year I’ve mostly bouldered, but to be honest, I consider myself to be more of a sport climber. I want to spend the remainder of the year trying to tick off a 5.12. I’ve been back at the gym leading and trying to get my mind back into sport mode. I have two projects in mind. One is called Rainy Day Women (5.12a) in North Bend, Washington. It’s a really long, sustained route. The second one would be Culture Shock (5.12a) off Exit 38. It’s more steeply overhung, about 50-feet long, sustained and powerful. If I could do one of those I’d be happy.
KAYA:
Awesome. It was so great to follow your journey with this challenge, congratulations again! We can’t wait to see you send your first 5.12 this fall!
Follow Brandon on KAYA (@average.jug)! Find this list, these climbs, and all the beta needed to send on KAYA, the climber’s app.
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