Jenn DeBellis’s Best of the West: Top Eight V8s

Jenn DeBellis’s Best of the West: Top Eight V8s
KAYA team member Jenn DeBellis breaks down her top eight V8s! Check out the article: https://medium.com/@kayaclimb/jenn-debelliss-best-of-the-west-top-eight-v8s-bb7df7606cd1 Save Jenn’s list: https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/climblist?climblistId=1624&dynamicClimblistTypeId=&gymId=&locationId= Learn more about KAYA lists: https://kayaclimb.com/blog/climb-lists 1. Better Eat Your Wheaties, Hueco 00:06 – 00:22 2. Gibb’s Cave, Squamish 00:23 – 00:41 3. Junior’s Achievement, Bishop 00:43 – 01:00 4.

Our team member and boulder smasher, Jenn DeBellis, has been on the road for the past few years chasing stars and badass boulders. Here, Jenn shares a list of her favorite V8s in the western United States and breaks down why each one earned its spot. by @jenndbell

1. Better Eat Your Wheaties V8, Hueco Tanks, Texas

4.1*, 31 ascents, 8 beta videos on KAYA Nestled in the heart of one of East Spur’s most popular zones, The Maze, this crimpy problem is a classic for the ages. https://kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/climb/Better-Eat-Your-Wheaties-v8-Hueco-Tanks-128862/169153/176630 If I could describe my perfect V8, this hits every mark. Better Eat Your Wheaties is tall enough to feel proud, hosts the most interesting grips, and requires thoughtful body movement and tension. This boulder sparked my interest in the lower start, Fred Nicole’s Crown of Aragorn (V13), which is now a life goal boulder for me. Watch my send here!

2. Gibbs’ Cave V8, Squamish, British Columbia

4.3*, 99 ascents, 27 beta videos on KAYA Gibbs’ Cave was one of the first boulders to be established in what is now one of the world’s best bouldering areas — Squamish, BC. Nick Gibbs impressively made the FA of this Apron Boulders area classic nearly 30 years ago in 1996! Beta varies for the start with some opting for a right heel or toe and others, typically the shorties, opting for a left heel. Paddle through crystally slopers and get rewarded with a glory top-out V0. You’ll want to wait for dry and cool condies to stick to those slopes! https://kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/climb/Gibbs-Cave-v8-Squamish-87349/41914/48079 This was my first project in Squamish when I began my now-permanent road trip. It was so thrilling to work and eventually send it. I distinctly remember toping out the easy highball portion of the climb and being filled with joy upon seeing an incredible view of the Howe Sound. I try to repeat this problem as often as I can! Check out my beta!

3. Junior’s Achievement, V8, Bishop, California

4.1*, 36 ascents, 12 beta videos on KAYA First climbed by Tom Herbert, Junior’s Achievement stands out as fingery Buttermilks testpiece. https://kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/climb/Juniors-Achievement-v7-Bishop-107382/410600/422164 I can’t think of a more perfect face climb with a more perfect view than this one. The aesthetics are all time. Bring your best edging shoes and some thick skin for this one!

4. Funk’s Arete V8, Hueco Tanks, Texas

5*, 5 ascents, 3 beta videos on KAYA I was blown away when I stumbled upon Funk’s Arete. Three-dimensional compression leads to a tenuous committing top-out on thin crimpers. I think it should be more well recognized as a Hueco Tanks classic! https://kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/climb/Funks-Arete-v8-Hueco-Tanks-129247/196989/206327 This climb is truly a journey! It feels like you get to climb forever without actually being that high above the pads. Such fun.

5. Midnight Train V8, Tahoe, California

4.6*, 12 ascents, 14 beta videos on KAYA Midnight Train is one of the best climbs on the famed Saddle Boulder in Tahoe. Beginning with a powerful leap, this problem is a perfect mix of jumping between perfect edges and keeping your balance through tricky tension. https://kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/climb/Midnight-train-v8-Tahoe-107536 Although I still need to go back and seal the deal on this one, it remains in my memory as one of my all-time favorites. There are multiple approaches to this boulder and each is an adventure — be it by driving through a tunnel that has an active river running through it or hiking through miles of abandoned train tunnels. I’ve done both and each time was a memorable journey. With plenty of other classics in this area, you’re guaranteed to have a good day out!

6. Kobe Tai V8, Leavenworth, Washington

4.2*, 18 ascents, 7 beta videos on KAYA If you’re like me and love a good system board style problem, then this is a perfect boulder for you! Kobe Tai is a pure, simple line on good Leavenworth granite—what more could you ask for? https://kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/climb/Kobe-Tai-v8-Leavenworth-134094/301144/311891

7. Carnivore, V8, Priest Draw, Arizona

5*, 5 ascents, 2 beta videos on KAYA Carnivore has some of the wildest movement I’ve experienced on an outdoor boulder with a feet-first exit and huge, swinging moves between jug pockets. I’ve yet to send this boulder, but every time I’ve gone to it there’s been a psyched-up crew of friends-to-be and an impressive gym floor underneath to protect the heady ending. https://kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/climb/Carnivore-v8-Priest-Draw-106016/83477/89675 Priest Draw deserves more appreciation for its epic roof climbing!

8. White Buffalo V8, Joe’s Valley, Utah

4.0*, 3 ascents, 6 beta videos on KAYA The striking black and tan rock faces and sick sculpted grips make Joe’s Valley one of my favorite areas. White Buffalo, in particular, exemplifies those characteristics which is part of why I love it so much. Battle through fun crimps on a perfect 40-degree overhang all while perched at the top of The Flu area with a sweet view of Right Fork. https://kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/climb/White-Buffalo-v8-Joes-Valley-131372/100646/106959

So there ya have it! Eight favorite V8s from KAYA team member and absolute crusher, Jenn DeBellis. Jenn is currently destroying some boulders in Rocklands and we look forward to seeing her full tick list in her KAYA profile!