HP40 Bouldering Overview
Horse Pens 40 in Alabama is one of the most unique sandstone bouldering areas in the country. With over 100 problems in the V3–V5 range and nearly as many in the V6–V8 range, it’s a paradise for moderate climbers and those looking to pack in a high volume of high-quality sends. But don’t be fooled by the numbers, HP40 is notoriously sandbagged and humbling. It’s a place where even the strongest climbers come to test their ego.
Sometimes referred to as the “Fontainebleau of the South,” HP40 offers a dense collection of beautiful, bulbous sandstone boulders shaped by time, erosion, and the fierce geology of the Appalachian Mountains.
This guide contains everything you need to know, from classic problems to travel logistics and tips.
Also, check out The Top 10 Most Popular Problems in Horse Pens 40! Or, watch the full video on YouTube.
Understanding Horse Pens 40 Bouldering
HP40 sits on private land at the top of Chandler Mountain in Alabama, and blends world-class sandstone climbing with a campground and music venue steeped in Southern tradition. The Schultz family owns the land and has worked hard to preserve its natural beauty and unique rock formations. The boulders are known for their compression, slopers, water grooves, and blunt features that test body tension and ego.
Expect highly featured sandstone that begs for creative movement and demands skin management. Many problems are short, powerful, and beta-intensive. While HP40 doesn’t cater as much to the double-digit boulderer, it’s a dreamland for moderate climbers.
Rock Type and Climbing Style
Horse Pens is famous for its dense field of hard, fine-grained sandstone boulders, sculpted by millions of years of erosion. The rock is smooth yet surprisingly grippy in cold conditions.
The climbing style is steep, powerful, and technical, often requiring precise body tension, compression, and creative movement. You’ll find:
- Slopers and sloping rails
- Water grooves and blunt features
- Short, explosive problems that demand full commitment
- Very little in the way of jug hauling, so you’ll earn every move
With so many problems in the V3–V8 range, HP40 is a dream for climbers who enjoy working hard on moderate grades. It’s also one of the most beta-intensive areas in the Southeast, so don’t be afraid to watch others and learn from different sequences.
Best Times to Boulder in Horse Pens
The best season to visit HP40 is fall through early spring, when the temperatures drop and the sandstone is dry and grippy. October through March are prime months, with cold snaps offering perfect friction. However, as with most of the south, planning shorter trips in the winter months can be difficult due to long and often unpredictable rain spells.
Summer is the off-season and brings heat and classic southern humidity.
Essential Areas for Every Skill Level
Beginner-friendly Classics
If you’re new to bouldering or just starting to explore sandstone, Horse Pens 40 offers a surprising number of approachable problems with good landings and straightforward movement. HP40 doesn’t hand out grades easily, but they’re a great introduction to the style and stone. Expect slopey holds, tricky topouts, and plenty of opportunities to build confidence while developing essential skills.
Merlin V1— Stand start. Climb the rippled highball face in the shape of a merlin’s hat that offers sloping edges, arete holds, and tricky feet up a low-angle slab.
Bumboy V3— The most popular and one of the most well-known problems in HP40. It’s notoriously difficult and friction-dependent, but it lives up to its reputation as one of the south’s best blocs.
Wasp V2— Climb through honeycomb-shaped pinches up the face. The crux of this one could be getting off the boulder.
No matter where you start, climbing a high volume of problems in this grade range is one of the best ways to improve your sandstone technique, especially on the lumpy features that define Horse Pens’ style.
Intermediate Classics
For climbers comfortable in the V4 to V7 range, Horse Pens 40 delivers some of its best lines. Powerful movement, subtle beta, and just puzzling enough keep things interesting. The climbs in this range highlight HP40’s unique sandstone features and require problem-solving. Don’t be surprised if your usual grade feels a little out of reach. HP40 has a reputation for keeping egos in check.
Lowdown V4— Sit start on jugs at the very furthest point of the break under the roof. A few moves of fluff across weakness lead to a mantle near the bulbous arete.
Millipede V5— Make your way up the double faint grooves that created HP’s best known squeeze problem. Whether it’s the best or not is debatable, but you will never find a feature that looks like this one anywhere else. Originally cleaned and attempted as a double gaston groove up the black streak, this problem was sick. A bit more scrubbing revealed slopers that were just good enough to hold and thus the power slab was created. Strong fingers won’t help you here. An early ascent took James Litz 3 times more goes to send than God Module.
Hammerhead V5— Start at bottom of cracks, then climb arete. Climb using crack and holds on arete. Save a bit for the top.
Litz Pocket Problem V7— Sit start low on jugs. Climb roof via shallow pockets to jug just right of tree. Finish same as Cuts Like a Knife. Bring ample spotters and pads, and be careful to make it past the dropoff at the start.
Hard Classics
With 60 problems V8 and harder, HP40 offers a concentrated collection of brutal testpieces that reward power, precision, and perseverance. These problems are packed with hard moves, bad holds, and unforgiving topouts. Dialing in the subtleties of body position and friction is key, as is patience. Even seasoned crushers will find that Horse Pens 40 demands their full try-hard, making every send feel well-earned.
Ghetto Superstar V8— Make your way through sloped edges to a smiley face edge that begins the crux section. From the smile, move left along okay crimps to gain a good knob.
Slider V9— Sit start on obvious jug. A power endurance journey of cutter crimps and butter-like slopers trending up and right to casual top makes this one a must do for anyone in search of one of the best in the deep south. Initially given the double digit, this one barely keeps the nine grade these days as it is probably the most flashed problem in the park. Don’t let the “slide” to your right or the sharp crimp match get in your head, and you will have no problem.
Hot ‘N Tot V10— Start low same as Cadillac Thrills. Jack foot, then reach with left hand to peanut hold. Bust right to large sloping sidepull around right of arete. Long move from this to sloping pod at top.
God Module V11— Stand start on crimps and use a pasted foot to jump to crimps in the upper seam. Continue up more hard moves to top. This is not a jump start problem. For full local credit, the right foot must bare weight for a 2 count before moving to the break with your left. This has been done with a pad on the back and tennis shoes so ponder that as you pull on the holds.
Planning Your First Horse Pens Bouldering Visit
Horse Pens 40 is a privately owned park, and climbers are expected to follow strict rules to protect the land, the campground, and the rest of the climbing community. All guests must sign a waiver upon arrival, and those arriving after hours should follow the posted procedures for late check-in.
Park Rules and Regulations
- No pets outside of your vehicle except in the grassy field by the middle gate. It’s best to leave your pets at home when climbing here.
- No glass anywhere in the park.
- No fires outside of existing fire rings.
- No disturbing wildlife, vegetation, or the rock.
- Alcohol must be discreet and in compliance with Alabama state law.
HP40 is a strict Leave No Trace park. Respect the land, pack out all trash, and never remove or alter any part of the environment.
Camping and Accommodations
Horse Pens 40 offers camping and rustic cabins on-site, with reservation-only camping now in effect. The campground has basic amenities, but no glass, one vehicle per site, and a 5 mph speed limit are strictly enforced. Visit www.hp40.com to reserve your spot and view campground maps and pricing.
If arriving after 6 PM, you must call ahead to make entry arrangements. The main gate is closed from 6 PM to 8 AM Central Time, and a $20 fee applies to any vehicle arriving between midnight and 8 AM.
HP40 Bouldering Conclusion
Horse Pens 40 is a one-of-a-kind bouldering destination that blends rich history, Southern hospitality, and an incredible collection of sandstone blocks. Whether you’re climbing for a day or staying for a week, HP40 offers an unforgettable experience, as long as you come prepared, follow the rules, and respect the land.
Check out Adam Henry’s full HP40 Bouldering Guide on KAYA.
