Horse Pens 40 is known for its world-class sandstone, slopers, and brutally honest grades. Whether planning your first trip or revisiting old favorites, this list showcases the powerful movement and unique features that make HP40 a must-visit bouldering destination in the Southeast. Check out the 10 most popular boulder problems in Alabama on KAYA:
Or, watch the full video on YouTube, and use our complete HP40 Travel Guide to learn more about the area and plan your trip!
Horse Pens 40 is known for its world-class sandstone, slopers, and brutally honest grades. Whether you’re planning your first trip or looking to revisit old favorites, this list showcases the powerful movement and unique features that make HP40 a must-visit bouldering destination in the Southeast.
Redneck v6, Horse Pens 40. 46 ascents logged, 3.9/5 rating , 14 beta videos – Start low same as Missing the Point. Iron cross left to good hold, then up face and crack. – View more climbs and beta videos for Lower Boulders, Horse Pens 40 on KAYA.
Starting low, make a big reach out left to a good hold, then use a comfortable heel-toe cam and climb up the face and crack to top out.
Lowdown v4, Horse Pens 40. 42 ascents logged, 4.0/5 rating , 10 beta videos – Sit start on jugs at the very furthest point of break under roof. A few moves of fluff across weakness leads to mantle near bulbous arete. The shelf that has fallen, which is not part of the rock, is NOT part of the problem.
Aptly named, Lowdown starts on jugs at the very furthest point of the break under the roof. A few moves of fluff across weakness leads to the mantle near the bulbous arete. The shelf that has fallen, which is not part of the rock, is NOT part of the problem. The crux might be not dabbing.
Popeye v5, Horse Pens 40. 50 ascents logged, 4.1/5 rating , 13 beta videos – Start low on left-facing bread loaf sloper. Move to break, then up water groove. Be sure to summon your trad powers at the crux. – View more climbs and beta videos for Upper Boulders, Horse Pens 40 on KAYA.
Start low on left-facing bread loaf sloper. Move to break, then up water groove. Be sure to summon your trad powers at the crux
Genesis v3, Horse Pens 40. 55 ascents logged, 4.5/5 rating , 18 beta videos – Low start on jug undercling and sidepull. Long move to pocket, then up to sloping top. – View more climbs and beta videos for Upper Boulders, Horse Pens 40 on KAYA.
Just two long moves, this one definitely favors tall climbers. Sit start at the lowest hueco and climb the gently overhanging face through a big hueco to a jug, then over the lip.
Cuts Like a Knife v5, Horse Pens 40. 58 ascents logged, 4.5/5 rating , 11 beta videos – Sit start low on jug. Climb straight out face on crimping rail to huge jug. Continue up face, ending in large faint groove. – View more climbs and beta videos for Lower Boulders, Horse Pens 40 on KAYA.
As the name implies, this one requires good skin or pain tolerance. Sit start low on a jug. Climb straight out face through a sharp crimp to the huge jug. Continue up the face, ending in the large, faint groove.
Hammerhead v5, Horse Pens 40. 65 ascents logged, 4.4/5 rating , 13 beta videos – Start at bottom of cracks, then climb arete. Climb using crack and holds on arete. Save a bit for the top. – View more climbs and beta videos for Upper Boulders, Horse Pens 40 on KAYA.
A true HP40 must-do classic. Start at bottom of the crack, then climb up and out the arete. Be sure to save some gas in the tank for the top.
Merlin v1, Horse Pens 40. 83 ascents logged, 4.7/5 rating , 12 beta videos – Stand start. Climb rippled highball face in the shape of a merlin’s hat that offers sloping edges, arete holds, and tricky feet up a low-angle slab. – View more climbs and beta videos for Upper Boulders, Horse Pens 40 on KAYA.
So mellow, you can almost walk up it. Climb the tall rippled face in the shape of a merlin’s hat that offers sloping edges, arete holds, and tricky feet up a low-angle slab.
Bumboy v3, Horse Pens 40. 127 ascents logged, 4.6/5 rating , 28 beta videos – Sit start on pods. Climb short runnel feature. – View more climbs and beta videos for Upper Boulders, Horse Pens 40 on KAYA.
The most popular boulder in HP40 on KAYA for good reason! Thoroughly brush the iconic lumpy slopers, then slap your way up the groove and try not to grease off.
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