This month, we are celebrating KAYA’s launch of Steven Jeffery’s Official Joe’s Valley Bouldering Guidebook by highlighting the legends that have contributed to the development of the Joe’s Valley bouldering area.
Our first Joe’s Hero, Jason Kehl, is one of climbing’s most prolific developers, designers, and personalities.
KAYA: Jason, where are you from?
Jason Kehl: I’m originally from Maryland and have been climbing for about 30 years. I currently live in El Paso and spend most of my time exploring Hueco Tanks.
KAYA: What’s your personal history with Joe’s Valley look like? When did you first visit the climbing area?
Jason Kehl: My first time was maybe 1997? A couple of friends went out to Salt Lake City for the winter tradeshow and comp and afterward, we headed to Joe’s to check it out. I had seen an article/mini-guide in one of the magazines and was super psyched to check it out. Maybe not the best idea to go in January though, we rolled up at night and there was snow and it was windy and freezing. We just had thin little tents and were sleeping on crash pads at the campsites.
KAYA: In Reel Rock’s Joe’s Valley segment you’re shown scaring the locals with your gothic style — did you have any tense interactions in Orangeville or Castle Dale?
Jason Kehl: Other than the weird looks, I would say they have all been pretty mellow and friendly. Although, once I was in the Subway there, and some local dad called me a freak or something when I walked by him.
The funny thing was, it was probably one of my more normal looks.
Another time, around 2006, we were out climbing and a local family randomly invited us to their Emery County house for leftovers they had from Thanksgiving, which was super nice… we were a rough-looking bunch.
KAYA: How has Joe’s changed for better and for worse since then?
Jason Kehl: I guess I would have to say both. Definitely good as far as there has been lots of development with a bunch of new problems and tons of parking area and trail work. Also, the relationship between the climbers and the town of Orangeville is better than ever. But also worse because of overcrowding in certain areas/parking and more recently the chipping that has been happening.
KAYA: The Joe’s Valley Festival has definitely done a lot to bring together climbers and the people of Emery County! In what ways do you think visiting climbers can ensure their impact is a positive one?
Jason Kehl: The Fest has been awesome. Joe’s is a beautiful and fragile place. So try and keep your impact to a minimum, if a parking lot is super full, maybe go to another spot. Or, if there are 10 people at a boulder, don’t even ask to join (most people are too nice to say no) just go to another zone.
Sandstone is one of the most fragile types of rock and needs time to dry after a rain, so please don’t climb on it. Also, no one wants to listen to your music, so buy some headphones and enjoy!
KAYA: That is definitely great advice. What inspires you about Joe’s Valley rock climbing in particular compared to other crags?
Jason Kehl: Mostly I love the black and tan streaks of the sandstone boulders, it’s so striking. I also love how free it is out there, from the camping to just being able to go anywhere you want and explore. Joe’s can be a busy place, but it is also easy to get away from people if you are willing to explore.
KAYA: How did it feel to be in Joe’s Valley at a time when very little problems had been established and it was just entering its golden age of development?
Jason Kehl: At the time it seemed normal, bouldering was fairly new and most people weren’t focused just on that. So a lot of the areas we would go to always had more room for development, especially with the taller lines.
KAYA: Which fork of Joe’s do you think has the most potential boulder problems? What are you searching for when you go exploring for new boulders in Joe’s?
Jason Kehl: Probably Left Fork, but it also requires a lot of hiking. I think most of the easily accessible obvious lines have been done. There is definitely some hard stuff still there waiting.
I look for cool features, but most importantly good rock. There are a lot of interesting features out there but the rock is sandy. It’s hard to find both, but that makes the good lines much more special.
KAYA: What developed problems do you still have left to climb in Joe’s Valley that you’re excited about?
Jason Kehl: Mask of God (V13) was one that got away and that I always have in the back of my mind. I had put up the left line Man From the Past (V11) and was trying that too, but never put it together before I had to leave town.
KAYA: Has your hold shaping over the years been at all inspired by Joe’s bouldering?
Jason Kehl: Definitely. I used to just go out hiking and just take photos of the rock, I have a catalog of cool-looking shapes on my computer from Joe’s. In fact, I designed my Innies Volumes after putting up the climb Bubble Boy in the Left Fork, because it had this amazing huge slopey hole right at the start. When I first walked up to the boulder I started laughing out loud it was so cool looking.
KAYA: What’s your go-to Food Ranch donut? (The Food Ranch is the local grocery store, wi-fi hot spot, and donut slinger.)
Jason Kehl: Butterfinger.
KAYA: What’s next for you and your climbing?
Jason Kehl: Mostly just exploring and establishing new lines here in Hueco. There is so much to do, it’s actually overwhelming. I have a list of things I have tried or wanted to try. I just need more time and more skin.
KAYA: Anything else you want to add?
Jason Kehl: Can we talk about how Black Lung (V13) is an eliminate?
In no way is this meant to take anything away from Ben Moon’s FA, he is definitely a legend and one of my biggest inspirations coming up, especially Black Lung.
So I did Black Lung in 2005 and I started trying it with the old beta and was getting close but couldn’t do it. Someone mentioned some alternative beta that uses a high right foot and a slap out right to a sloper that is within reach, then it finishes the same way. Some people do it this way now and some do it the original way.
Either way, it is Black Lung, you start and finish the same and you use any holds in between that follow the line. If you have to say a hold is off it is not a clean line, but an eliminate (which is a very old school mentality). Maybe it is easier, and that is fine. I have put up a lot of first ascents in my day and most of the time better beta is figured out after me, no big deal. This is also why I prefer not to grade FA’s because, in time, the weakness of the line presents itself and I think grades should be a consensus.
KAYA: Yeah, that’s a controversial take, but we’re in support! In the new guidebook, Steven Jeffery gave a new name to the “good” beta for the historic New Joe’s classic, Black Lung, which includes doing the same first move before jumping up and right to a sloper. This variation/difference in beta was classically referred to as “Blung,” but is now dubbed “Second Hand Smoke.”
Thanks for chatting, Jason! Good luck on your projects in Hueco this season!!
Jason has compiled a list of his top FAs in Joe’s Valley, check ’em out!
Jason Kehl’s seven favorite First Ascents in Joe’s Valley:
1. The Wind Below V7, Left Fork
5*, 17 ascents, 24 beta videos on KAYA
The Wind Below, v8
The Wind Below v8, Joe’s Valley. 54 ascents logged, 5.0/5 rating – You may want to watch a few videos online to see what you’re getting into on this monster highball. A big move gets you started and some delicate crimping leads you to a jug on the lip.
“This is probably one of the most beautiful highballs I have ever done. Dark black rock with some nice tan streaks. A tiny little pine tree in one of the seams gives off that nice zen vibe and a committing mental crux at the top, perfect!”
“When I first heard about this project, the guys at Pusher in SLC said someone had fallen off and broke their ankle, that got me even more psyched to check it out, ha. The name is from a Rage Against the Machine song and when you are topping out there is definitely a lot of air below you.”
2. Beyond Life V10, Left Fork
4.6*, 19 ascents, 13 beta videos on KAYA
Beyond Life, v10
Beyond Life v10, Joe’s Valley. 48 ascents logged, 4.7/5 rating – Starts on the smile edge then head left and up using the wicked little crimp. Supreme line! – View more climbs and beta videos for Left Fork, Joe’s Valley on KAYA.
“This was a memorable one for me. I remember being at the campfire the night before and Dave Graham came back and was raving about this new line he spied that day nearby Wills A Fire (V6) on some beautiful black rock with this perfect side-pull crimp. He got a bunch of us psyched to go check it out the next day. We were all trying it and I happened to do it first in full warrior mode with the banshee screams and all. Dave and Matt Bosley also did it right after. The name was after something Noah Kaufman said about this guy in a horror movie we were watching who got split in half.”
3. Worst Case Scenario V9, Left Fork
4.5*, 34 ascents, 37 beta videos on KAYA
Worst Case Scenario, v9
Worst Case Scenario v9, Joe’s Valley. 80 ascents logged, 4.5/5 rating – It’s a long and windy road. What’s the worst that can happen? Start on the small edges and get out to the tufa without flinging yourself down the hill. A big move or precise technique will get you through the section after the top of the tufa.
“This one is great not only because of the strange-looking landing (it sits perched next to a steep drop that goes directly down to the road). The name I chose really adds to that sensation of — “Am I going to fall off of this and land 30ft down in the road?” Not to mention, most photos of the problem make it look worse than it actually is. Which I think is kind of a cool illusion. In fact, it’s actually pretty safe and I don’t think anyone has fallen into the road… yet.”
4. Gurkha Knife V9, Left Fork
3.8*, 4 ascents, 8 beta videos on KAYA
Gurkha Knife, v9
Gurkha Knife v9, Joe’s Valley. 40 ascents logged, 4.2/5 rating – A power enduro fest with wild moves on a steep arête feature with some potential dab at the finish. – View more climbs and beta videos for Left Fork, Joe’s Valley on KAYA.
“When I first entered the Gurkha Knife cave and saw those swiss cheese-like pockets I knew I had to figure a way to climb out of it. It turned out to be super cool and you actually grab some of the coolest-looking grips under there. Also pretty neat that the inside and the outside of the arete are two totally different types of rock. This one was named after the Gurkha knife that I had in my van. It was my only source of protection.”
5. Counter Clockwork V11, Right Fork
3.9*, 9 ascents, 8 beta videos on KAYA
It’s worth noting that climbers frequently top out the problem earlier than Jason did on the FA. Gabe’s send shows the “early exit” of Counter Clockwork.
“I was pretty proud of this one because it is right off the road and in plain sight. It was on my list for a while to check out and I thought it was crazy that it had never been done. Kind of abstract beta as you ride these toe-hooks while holding the slopey rail. For the couple days I worked on it, I would ritualistically wash the holds with water after each session, so as to not draw too much attention before I sent it.”
“The problem starts sitting and follows the arete all the way to the top and does not top out after the crux, the second part is half the problem and I even fell up there the go before I sent. It’s very committing. This is a tough one the shorter you are, I’m 5′ 7″ and couldn’t keep the good toe-hook and had to use a smaller insecure nob. I named it Counter Clockwork after the position your body moves around the toe hook.”
6. Worm Turns V10/11, Left Fork
3.8*, 22 ascents, 21 beta videos on KAYA
Worm Turns, v10
Worm Turns v10, Joe’s Valley. 45 ascents logged, 3.9/5 rating – Bring your vise grips. Start on the very bottom of the tufa (which is now almost completely missing). Used to be V10 but a combo of time, erosion from brushing and breaking holds have turned this into a completely different problem.
“Jared Roth found this one and took me to it one day. We spent an hour one day brushing all these white salt deposits that were covering the entire roof. I just remember when we were done our dreads were all white and covered in this salt powder. Jared went back to Salt Lake and I stayed around to finish it up.”
“It’s one of the more unique features I have ever climbed. I love tufas! Sadly in recent years, part of the beginning of the tufa has broken off. Which I think probably happened from climbing on wet sandstone, but most likely from people kneebaring on it and applying too much pressure.”
7. Gentleman’s Project V11, Left Fork
4.1*, 8 ascents, 5 beta videos on KAYA
Gentleman’s Project v11 – Left Fork, Joe’s Valley Bouldering – Watch Beta Videos
Gentleman’s Project v11, Joe’s Valley. 23 ascents logged, 4.2/5 rating – Massive jug to start. Massive shoulders to get it done. There is a low start down and right if you feel like you need to add a grade. – View more climbs and beta videos for Left Fork, Joe’s Valley on KAYA.
“I was hanging out at the Blackout boulder one day and noticed the line to the left. With a super obvious start, with kind of an improbable-looking overhang above with just one undercling on that super nice black rock. I love underclings, so I was keen to figure out a way through the bulge. It turned out to be a really cool shoulder-y sequence.”
“This problem was featured in Dosage III, in the Utah Update segment. I named it the Gentleman’s project because, during that time, I had this old book “How to be a Gentleman” and I would bring it out climbing and read random snippets to friends throughout the day.”
A huge “thank you” to Jason for taking the time to chat about his history at Joe’s. Without his contributions, Joe’s Valley wouldn’t be the area it is today.
Check out the Joe’s Valley Bouldering Guidebook, only on KAYA PRO.
