In celebration of KAYA’s launch of Steven Jeffery’s Official Joe’s Valley Guidebook, we’re highlighting the legends that have contributed to the development of Joe’s Valley bouldering.
Taylor McNeill is from Raleigh, NC, where he started climbing in a local gym in the summer of 2009. Within the year, he’d moved to Boone, NC, to be closer to outdoor climbing. “I was instantly hooked,” says Taylor.
In the years since, Taylor has moved to Salt Lake City, Utah, and has established himself as one of America’s strongest boulderers and most active developers in areas across the country, including Joe’s Valley, Utah.
KAYA: What’s your personal history with Joe’s Valley look like? When did you first visit?
Taylor McNeill: I first visited Joe’s when I moved to SLC in 2018. I actually moved here having never climbed anywhere in Utah. I had heard a lot about the area and was stoked to have Joe’s become my home crag.
KAYA: How does Joe’s Valley bouldering compare to the climbing you grew up with in the Southeast?
Taylor McNeill: To be honest, my first impression of Joe’s was not that good. The rock is much softer and chossier than the southern sandstone I was used to and I was shocked at how sharp a lot of the classics are. Over time, I did grow to appreciate and actually really like Joe’s Valley. I was caught up in comparing apples to oranges. Much like the southeast, Joe’s is sandstone, but it’s just an entirely different style of climbing than I was used to.
KAYA: You spent a ton of time in Joe’s Valley projecting what would become Moonlight Sonata (V16), the hardest boulder in Joe’s. What things helped keep you sane during the projecting process?
Taylor McNeill: I feel like I didn’t really stay sane during it, to be honest. I was really fixated. There was one season where when it was still a bit warmer I spent time climbing other established boulders which helped my mental game. That season it took me 3 days to send The Last Great One (V13), climbed Bare Skin (V11), Counter Clockwork (V11), and a few others.
Right by Moonlight, there is a small waterfall trickling down into a creek. The landing backs right up against the water and it’s always a nice vibe to sit there in between attempts. Over the years though, this small creek has gotten bigger and bigger through flooding. It seems like after another couple of years there might not be a landing for Moonlight anymore.
KAYA: Are there any established lines you still want to climb in Joe’s
Taylor McNeill: I want to do Masterpiece (V13) and Black #1 (V12). I’ve spent like six days trying Black #1 and still haven’t been able to do the crux move, I’m not sure why.
KAYA: What’s your favorite part about Joe’s Valley?
Taylor McNeill: Hands down the Orangeville Food Ranch!
KAYA: Joe’s is known for its sandstone boulders, incut crimps, and gently overhung walls, what was it like to find a near-limit project in your style of wide compression?
Taylor McNeill: Justin Wood, a Salt Lake local, showed me Moonlight on one of my first trips to Joe’s. I was immediately psyched to try it because it’s exactly the style of climbing that I love the most. I didn’t really realize it at the time, but there are very few compression climbs in Joe’s, and even fewer that have fairly large, comfortable holds.
KAYA: Do you think there are any projects in Joe’s that will be harder than Moonlight Sonata?
Taylor McNeill: The sit start!! I’ve climbed the lower moves into the start of Moonlight. It adds about four moves of V10/11 into the stand start. I’m really psyched to try and finish this up sometime in the future, but I definitely needed a mental break before falling off the same moves again and again.
KAYA: What’s your favorite area in Joe’s Valley? New Joe’s, Right Fork, or Left Fork?
Taylor McNeill: Right Fork has my favorite collection of boulder problems overall.
KAYA: Which donut is your favorite from Orangeville’s beloved grocery store, the Food Ranch?
Taylor McNeill: Definitely Butterfinger.
KAYA: What’s next for you and your climbing?
Taylor McNeill: I’m traveling to Fontainebleau this fall to try Soudain Seul (V16/17). This is a life list climb for me, so I’m really stoked for the opportunity feel it out and see how it goes.
KAYA: Good luck, Taylor! Thanks for chatting and for all your rock climbing development efforts.
Taylor compiled a list of his favorite Joe’s Valley boulder problems, see what made the cut!
Taylor McNeill’s Top 5 Boulder Problems in Joe’s Valley:
5. Lactation Station V10, Dairy Canyon
4.0*, 13 ascents, 10 beta videos on KAYA
Lactation Station, v10
Lactation Station v10, Joe’s Valley. 37 ascents logged, 4.4/5 rating – Start crossed up and make a long move out right. Then let the milking of the slopey dishes begin. – View more climbs and beta videos for Dairy Canyon, Joe’s Valley on KAYA.
“I love how round and smooth everything is on this problem. The holds are very cool and unique and it reminds me of southern sandstone areas like Horse Pens 40.”
4. Milkman Sit V10/11, Dairy Canyon
4.3*, 5 ascents, 4 beta videos on KAYA
Milkman Sit, v10
Milkman Sit v10, Joe’s Valley. 15 ascents logged, 4.2/5 rating – Sit start in the two finger pocket for both right and left hands. Squeeze the arête and dodge under the tree as you work your way to the top. – View more climbs and beta videos for Dairy Canyon, Joe’s Valley on KAYA.
“I like this one for the same reasons as Lactation Station (V10). The pinch on this boulder is really sick and it kind of makes the boulder, in my opinion. I also love the hard slopey top out which again reminds me of the southern sandstone I grew up climbing on.”
3. Rug Rat V5, Right Fork
3.9*, 16 ascents, 3 beta videos on KAYA
Rug Rat, v6
Rug Rat v6, Joe’s Valley. 47 ascents logged, 3.9/5 rating – Start really low on the bad undercling, work the rail up and jump out right to the lip. And it’s still not over ’til the top. – View more climbs and beta videos for Right Fork, Joe’s Valley on KAYA.
“It climbs a super sick rail feature really well. I warmed up on this problem at least a couple of times every session before trying Moonlight. It really helped me to have a routine to get into the right headspace.”
2. The Last Great One, Left Fork
5*, 3 ascents, 9 beta videos on KAYA
The Last Great One, v13
The Last Great One v13, Joe’s Valley. 13 ascents logged, 5.0/5 rating – Truly a great, long line out an amazing roof with a massive last move. Well worth the hike and time you will put into falling off the last move over and over again.
“I love being perched up on the hill with a great view of the Left Fork. The big last move is really cool and you feel like a superhero when you stick it. This was a perfect mini-project to help my mental game in preparation for Moonlight Sonata (V16)”
1. Moonlight Sonata V16, Right Fork
5*, 1 ascent, 1 beta video on KAYA
Moonlight Sonata, v16
Moonlight Sonata v16, Joe’s Valley. 2 ascents logged, 5.0/5 rating – Morpho alert! Follows the arête all the way up, starting with holds at head height. – View more climbs and beta videos for Right Fork, Joe’s Valley on KAYA.
“My proudest epic ever. I love the big arch feature on this cave and that it has a nice flat landing. The creek is insane lookin’. The first time I went the season I sent the boulder was splattered in mud like up to the lip. The creek was like, 8 feet wider than it had been. A heinous flash flood must’ve come through so I had to go to the Food Ranch, buy a spray bottle and spray and brush the entire boulder from the top down. It took forever and then I had to of course wait for it to have dried completely to protect the sandstone.”
Thanks, Taylor, for the awesome list and interview! We’re sure you’ll smash it in Font.
Check out the Joe’s Valley Bouldering Guidebook, only on KAYA PRO.
