Leavenworth, Washington’s high-quality granite, easy approaches, and great camping make it the Pacific Northwest’s premiere bouldering destination. With well over 1,000 problems, many of which are roadside, Leavenworth bouldering offers an amazing landscape to accrue volume. Also- it’s only 2 hours from Seattle!
Below is a complete guide for your first trip to Leavenworth.
Classic Boulders to Climb:
Myles Byam on Angelina Jolie v10, Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth — Photo: Marc BourguignonFor Beginner/Intermediate Climbers-
Beginner and intermediate climbers can find nearly 1,000 boulder problems graded V7 and under. From classic highballs overhanging the Wenatchee River to pristine granite roofs, Leavenworth offers an abundance of quality boulders for climbers of all levels to enjoy.
The Sleeping Lady V2, Leavenworth
The Sleeping Lady, v2
The Sleeping Lady v2, Leavenworth. 36 ascents logged, 4.8/5 rating – Climb down to the little platform at the edge of the stream, grab the head-high polished shelf, and make increasingly larger moves up the overhanging blocks. After a committing lunge to a rounded horn, climb right to jugs, then top out slightly left.
Sunny and Steep V2, Leavenworth
Sunny and Steep, v2
Sunny and Steep v2, Leavenworth. 198 ascents logged, 4.4/5 rating – Climb the left side of the beautiful featured face on rounded jugs. Feel free to add a grade in the summer heat! – View more climbs and beta videos for Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth on KAYA.
Fridge Center V4, Leavenworth
Fridge Center, v4
Fridge Center v4, Leavenworth. 225 ascents logged, 4.4/5 rating – Start on crisp pinch/crimps in the center of the face. Maneuver to jugs on top of the huge block and top out. – View more climbs and beta videos for Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth on KAYA.
Toto V4, Leavenworth
Toto, v4
Toto v4, Leavenworth. 236 ascents logged, 3.7/5 rating – Start matched on a flexing sidepull flake in the small alcove to the left of The Scarecrow. Bust to the lip and top out. Highball! – View more climbs and beta videos for Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth on KAYA.
Feel the Pinch V5, Leavenworth
Feel the Pinch, v5
Feel the Pinch v5, Leavenworth. 97 ascents logged, 4.0/5 rating – Start crouched on a sloping rail on the right side of the face. Climb up and left through another sloper to a neat-o pinch and gaston crimp, topping out a few feet right of the tree.
The Hueco Crimper V6, Leavenworth
The Hueco Crimper, v6
The Hueco Crimper v6, Leavenworth. 109 ascents logged, 4.0/5 rating – Start crouched on the right side of the low overhang with a right hand-heel match and a good left-hand edge on the lip.
Busted V7, Leavenworth
Busted, v7
Busted v7, Leavenworth. 197 ascents logged, 4.0/5 rating – Climb directly up the overhanging arete from a sit start matched on the low, flexing flake. Use slopers for your left hand and crimps for your right to set up for a powerful move to the high sloping ledges of Fiend it Like Crack.
For Advanced Climbers-
Leavenworth is home to hundreds of hard granite boulders for seasoned climbers to enjoy. In addition to Little Bavaria’s well-traveled classics, the area boasts many newer problems that are steep, high, hard- or all three. For a good sampling of the bouldering, make an attempt to check out all three major areas: Icicle Canyon, Tumwater Canyon, and Mountain Home Road.
Pimpsqueak V8, Leavenworth
Pimpsqueak, v8
Pimpsqueak v8, Leavenworth. 100 ascents logged, 4.8/5 rating – One of the coolest features around. Start up the clean right arete to a jug at the edge of the cave, then head straight out the horizontal prow, squeezing between the slopey lip and better holds under the roof.
Superman V9, Leavenworth
Superman, v9
Superman v9, Leavenworth. 66 ascents logged, 4.1/5 rating – Start crouched on the left side of the cave with a small, incut left-hand crimp and an obvious right-hand sloper. Muscle your feet onto the wall, slap to the lip, and make easier but strenuous moves up and right to top out up the right side of the arete.
The Coffee Cup V9, Leavenworth
The Coffee Cup, v9
The Coffee Cup v9, Leavenworth. 79 ascents logged, 4.3/5 rating – Start matched on the obvious sloping rail on the left side of the steep face. Kick your left foot to a high sloping foothold at the end of the rail, stick the crimp above, and move to the lip.
Schist Cave V10, Leavenworth
Schist Cave, v10
Schist Cave v10, Leavenworth. 40 ascents logged, 3.8/5 rating – Start on a low horizontal jug in the center of the overhang, climbing out jugs to a semi-rest at the edge of a steep overlap.
The Practitioner V11, Leavenworth
The Practitioner, v11
The Practitioner v11, Leavenworth. 41 ascents logged, 4.7/5 rating – Start under the steepest part of the square roof with a good undercling in the seam. Climb up and right out of the roof, then squeeze and slap straight up the blunt corner to a difficult dyno for the lip.
Turbulence V11, Leavenworth
Turbulence, v11
Turbulence v11, Leavenworth. 27 ascents logged, 5.0/5 rating – Start on a head-high jug on the right side of the swooped overhang and climb up and left onto the face. From two left-facing sidepulls, make an improbable all-points-off dyno to a sloper on the lip and mantle over, or use the new-school beta and heel hook to a tiny crimp below the lip.
The Teacup V13, Leavenworth
The Teacup, v13
The Teacup v13, Leavenworth. 11 ascents logged, 4.9/5 rating – For many years, The Teacup was Leavenworth’s crown jewel and its hardest problem, a position just recently usurped with Carlo Traversi’s first ascent of the legendary Ladder Project. Start sitting underneath the obvious prow with a right-hand sloper and a decent left-hand sidepull crimp.
Top 10 Boulders in Leavenworth
Accommodations in Leavenworth, WA:
Mad Meadows in Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth — Photo: Marc BourguignonCamping-
Paid Camping: There are 7 Forest Service campgrounds on Icicle Creek Road, just a few miles from town. Many sites are first-come, first-served, and are very popular on the weekends. To snag one of the limited reservable sites visit recreation.gov. Single sites start at $20/night and many include potable water and vault toilets.
Dispersed Sites: If the campgrounds are full, look for established areas further up Icicle Creek Road. Remember to be respectful and follow all dispersed camping guidelines. Camping is never allowed between Icicle Road and Icicle Creek. The further you drive up the canyon, the better the camping gets! Do not camp in tents or vehicles at any climbing area parking.
Private Rentals + Hotels-
The small tourist town of Leavenworth is nestled in the Cascade Mountains at the eastern edge of the Wenatchee National Forest. Quirky festival weekends, kitschy gift shops, and Bavarian-style architecture make Leavenworth the state’s second-biggest tourist destination. There is an abundance of hotels in town, but be sure to book ahead as they can get fully booked with tourists year-round.
There are also numerous Airbnb and VRBO rentals within a 15-minute drive from the bouldering. This is a great option for larger groups or long trips.
Food + Water-
There are several grocery stores in town, including a Safeway to stock up on food and drinking water. Paid campsites also have potable water available.
Best Seasons to Climb:
Ben Vellek on Slingblade Variation v9, Tumwater Canyon, Leavenworth — Photo: Marc BourguignonFall / Spring / Summer-
The best climbing conditions are found here in the shoulder seasons. Temperatures can stay good for climbing through late fall depending on snowfall, so make sure to check the weather. Summer temperatures stay mild enough to allow for shady climbing all summer long!
Drew Schick on Alpha Beta V8Climb Responsibly:
Leave No Trace-
Leavenworth is a trendy area and can be crowded during peak season. Stay on the established trails and be respectful of fellow climbers. As always, be a good steward, and don’t forget to brush tick marks!
Pack It In, Pack It Out-
Due to the area’s popularity, human waste is becoming an issue. There are bathrooms at Castle Rock, Mad Meadows, Forestland, and The Sword areas. Otherwise, use a Wag Bag and pack it out along with any garbage you might create or come across. Remember, climbing in Leavenworth is a privilege, so let’s do our part to protect it!
Leavenworth Bouldering Guides:
For the most comprehensive and up-to-date guide for Leavenworth Bouldering, check out the KAYA Guide by local guide authors Kelly Sheridan and Drew Schick by downloading their guide on KAYA with downloadable GPS pins and offline topo maps —navigating the forest to find boulders can be tricky, but with KAYA GPS maps you’ll never get lost and can spend more time climbing. You can also buy Kelly’s print guide here.
