New River Gorge Bouldering Overview
Located Just a three-hour drive from Pittsburgh and Richmond, and within 5 hours of the DMV, The New River Gorge region is arguably the best climbing area in the mid-atlantic. Designated in 2021 as a National Park, the NRG is worth a visit even without the world-class climbing. Traditionally most well-known for it’s sport climbing, the New River Gorge has also been experiencing a golden-age of bouldering, with thousands of incredible problems strewn throughout the New River Gorge, the Meadow River Gorge, Summersville Lake, and everywhere in between.
Spring and fall are the best climbing seasons, but rare dry and sunny days can still be had in the dead of winter. This guide covers everything you need to know to make the most of your trip: must-visit zones, classic problems, beta for navigating the area, and tips for being a good steward of the land.
Also, check out The Top 10 Most Popular Problems in the NRG!
Understanding New River Gorge Bouldering
History of NRG Bouldering
Bouldering in the New River Gorge has been taking place for over 3 decades, but really saw its hay-day begin in the 2000’s with developers like Zak Roper and Micah Klinger leading the charge. In the 2010s, stronger and stronger climbers began to visit and leave their mark such as Tim Rose and Travis Gault from PA, Alex “Socks” Johnson, Carlo Traversi, and Jon Glassberg of LT11. From their, guide author Aaron Schnieder, living and working in Kentucky at the time, began making extremely frequent trips and ignited a fire in the development efforts. It was around this time, in 2015 that KAYA’s very own Eric Jerome began making the trip from Maryland and putting up his first problems in the area.
In 2018, the first ever “Boulder Bounty” was held, where sponsors could fund a purse for individual sick, hard projects. This brought out climbers such as Roman Yalowitz, Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, Nathaniel Coleman, and James Pearson. Many fantastic lines and testpieces were established in this time frame and in many ways, the event put the NRG on the map nationally for hard bouldering.
Around 2020, strong and experienced climbers and developers moved from Colorado and other destinations, once again ushering a new era of development. These climbers include Zack Smith, Scotty Grayson, Kraysean, Zach Alexander, and more. In 2024, Eric Jerome, Dalton Bunker, and Sam Rothstein also moved to the area and have continued to put up new problems.
It’s safe to say that the New is still in it’s golden age of bouldering development, particularly within the upper double-digit range.
Rock Type and Climbing Style
The new has some of the best sandstone known to man, and the rock varies slightly from crag to crag. Expect lots of gentle overhangs, featured and dynamic climbing, and ergonomic holds.
Best Times to Boulder in the NRG
Peak Climbing Seasons
Fall (October–November):
The prime season. Crisp temps, stable weather, and stunning fall colors make this the best time to climb.
Spring (March–May):
Excellent climbing conditions, getting warmer starting in the end of March.
Summer (June–August):
Not ideal—temps often hit the 90s, and direct sun bakes the boulders. Early mornings and shady zones can still offer short sessions, but this is generally the off-season. Deep water soloing at Summersville or sport climbing in shady areas like Kaymoor is a better idea.
Winter (December–February):
Cold, dry days can offer prime friction and solitude, but snow can often access to some zones. Boulders that get direct sun such as on the north side of the NRG or the Pirate’s Cove area offer quick-drying conditions.
Essential Areas for Every Skill Level
Beginner-friendly Classics
The New is a great place for beginners, with fabulous introductory problems to learn skills and improve on. Here are some of our favorites:
Gymnastic Fantastic V2 is an excellent and slightly tall problem located very close to the main trail in Short Creek.
Helium V3 is an ultra-classic which requires some technical footwork. Located at the Sunshine boulders, there are many other nearby problems that are worth attempting.
Feverish Child V0 is at the roadside Cotton Bottom area. It is a great intro to highballing.
The three areas listed above are great starting points. Use the filters in-app to dial into grades in your desired range!
Intermediate Classics
1, 2, Punch V7 has a classic sick jump move and has a great view of the New River Gorge bridge.
Geometric Equation V8 at Fern Point is a very 3-dimensional compression problem on super good, wind polished rock. The view from the topout is excellent.
Scream V7 is a slightly tall and bangin’ straight forward problem with big pulls between perfect edges.
Hard Classics
V10 is a great grade in the New River Gorge. Here are three that you shouldn’t miss.
Beauty Mountain Beatdown V10 – A sick highball on incut crimps! Scramble down the tree to get down.
Master of Manipulation V10 – An amazing problem from Ryan Scurfield and one of the first classic testpieces in the area. It’s pumpy, beautiful, and has a heartbreaker last move.
Man on the Moon V10 – A super tall line FA’d by Nic Spruill over a decade ago.
Planning Your First New River Gorge Bouldering Visit
The New offers a huge variety of areas with different stone, landscapes, and boulder styles to explore. This can make it a little daunting for a first-trip. The filters in KAYA should greatly assist with narrowing in on problems that will fit what you are seeking for your trip. Use the downloadable maps on KAYA and make lists to group climbs by proximity and minimize drive time during your trip.
Required gear
The usual–sticky rubber climbing shoes, ample foam, and chalk.
Skin Preparation
The sandstone at the new is pretty skin friendly but over time your tips will get pink and weepy if you aren’t careful!
Navigation tips
Use the parking pins within KAYA to navigate to the crag using Google Maps. Be sure to also read the area and access description to note if there are any nuances to the parking or access.
Safety and Ethics Essentials
- Do not climb on wet rock. Give the rock at least 24 hours to dry after a rain before climbing to avoid chances of rock breaking.
- When parking along the road, be certain to be sufficiently off the road. If there isn’t enough space to park safely, try a different area.
- DO NOT walk on the train tracks when accessing areas in close proximity to CSX tracks.
- Stay on established trails and keep crash pads off of vegetation.
- Pack it in, pack it out. Use a toilet or wag bags.
- Be respectful of other climbers and brush your tick marks!
- Absolutely no painting, carving, chipping, or using wire brushes, etc.
Accomadations
There are numerous places to stay as a climber visiting the New. Here are some popular options:
- The Arete Hotel – Climber owner and operated, this beautiful hostel includes a training facility for rainy stretches.
- The AAC Campground – A mainstay for those looking for a cheap n’ dirty camping option. Bonus, there are boulders IN the campground.
- ACE Adventure Resort – Offers cabins and grub close to town.
The above are just 3 of many great options so be sure to search around!
New River Gorge Bouldering Conclusion
The New River Gorge is a not-to-miss area.
Check out the complete NRG guide by Stella Mascari and Aaron Schneider and directly supports NRAC.
